North Carolina's Ocean Playground

Join Sue and Dave aboard our Magic Carpet Journals for an adventure on North Carolina's Outer Banks.

We had come to the Outer Banks of North Carolina the day before, flying Air Canada to Toronto and connecting on US Airways to Norfolk. In less than two hours we had driven to Kitty Hawk, one of several towns that dot the long, narrow sand-bar islands that stretch along the eastern US coastline. There are hotels and inns to be found along the Outer Banks, but the most popular form of accommodations is to rent a private beach house. We were sharing "Morgan's Reach", a large, lovely house set back slightly from the pounding surf at Nags Head, with friends.

We visited the Wright Brothers National Memorial that first afternoon, walking along the pathway where Orville had created aviation history with his 12 second, 37 metre flight that changed the course of history back in 1903. But it was 100 years ago this year when the brothers began experiments with gliders that would lead them to become the first in the world to fly a machine-powered aircraft. The tradition of glider flying continues today as the constant winds blow off the Atlantic, providing the perfect power source for this thrilling sport.

We chose Penguin Isle Soundside Grille in Nags Head to enjoy a seafood dinner that evening before a walk on the beach, a refreshing swim in our pool and a final soak in our Jacuzzi. The next morning we drove our rental car to Buxton, home to the famous Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, the tallest brick lighthouse on the American coast. Retracing our steps we visited the historic Chicamacomico Lifesaving Station before watching the playful turtles at the Pea Island National Wildlife Refuge. Crossing the high bridge over Oregon Inlet, we returned to Roanoke Island where a brief stop at Bodie Island Lighthouse was in order.

Then it was on to Jockey's Ridge State Park where Kill Devil Hills, the largest living sand dune on the east coast, rises 43 metres above the surrounding landscape. Slowly migrating southward, this sand dune with its own unique eco-system, is constantly changing as it encroaches on whatever lies before it. Dozens of visitors climbed to the top of the dune, some flying stunt kites against the cobalt blue sky while others, more brave, were hang-gliding with Kitty Hawk Kites. Excited and exhilarated after Susan's first glider experience, we reluctantly left the sand dunes and devoured more seafood at Quagmires, an oceanfront restaurant in Kill Devil Hills.

We sat on the beach, coffee in hand, waiting for the sunrise. The dark blue sky turned softer as streaks of glowing light awakened another day on North Carolina's Outer Banks. Soon we were driving through the fresh morning air to the Pier House Restaurant to enjoy a southern-style breakfast (well, we enjoyed everything except the grits) before watching the fishermen who line the pier hoping to catch their own breakfast.

The visitor's bureau in Manteo is unique in that is was once a bank and now offers tourist literature rather than money at it's drive-through. Armed with some ideas on how to spend the day, we were off on a journey of discovery.

The North Carolina Aquarium has been recently renovated and we lingered in the new facilities that feature sharks, turtles and alligators. Then it was on to the peaceful Elizabethan Gardens. We were able to wander along flower-laden pathways, our footsteps softened by pine needles and our souls softened by the sweet scent of nature. Created in the style of a 16th-century English garden, it is a tribute to the members of the Lost Colony. The Lost Colony is also well remembered at Roanoke Island Festival Park with a recreated 21-metre long square-rigged ship, a replica of an early encampment, a well-produced film, an art gallery, outdoor theatre, and gift shop.

Filled with knowledge of the culture and heritage of the region, we were ready for some fun time. After sampling some locally produced beers and a tasty late lunch at the Weeping Radish Brewery we drove back to the Nags Head area and Kitty Hawk Water Sports. Although there were a number of people taking to the water in kayaks we opted to enjoy the sound-side of the island on a wave runner. Soaked but happy, we returned to "Morgan's Reach" to enjoy a relaxing swim in our pool before heading back to Manteo. The downtown area has a British feel to it with plenty of shops to explore. One unique business we discovered was the nation's oldest family-operated movie house where you can enjoy a family-rated movie complete with pop corn, chocolate bar and soft drink and still get change from a $5 bill.

We found the captain of Downeast Rover's sail boat waiting for his guests at the Manteo dock. Edging out of the harbour, the sails were soon raised and the light breeze slowly caressed the boat as it slipped through the water. A dozen or more dolphins, enhanced with the challenge of a race, leaped above the waves as they outdistanced us in no time. Refreshed by the tangy salt air, it was time to eat, again. We sampled the sea's bounty, including fried soft shelled crabs (you eat the whole thing!), at Clara's Seafood Grill on the waterfront. Later, outside on the boardwalk, we awaited a magnificent sunset beyond the bridge to Roanoke Island Park. As darkness came so did the end of our journey to the Outer Banks, a truly special year-round ocean playground.

by Dave Stephens & Susan Randles

...............FLYING DREAMS....

* Dare County Tourist Bureau: toll-free 877-BY-THE-SEA or www.outerbanks.org

* Prudential Resort Realty (Reservations): tel. 800-458-3830 or www.resortrealty.com

* Air Canada: tel. 888-247-2262 or www.aircanada.ca

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