This Magic Carpet Journal takes you to Bermuda
with Susan Randles and Dave Stephens
We love Bermuda. To us, it is the most
romantic
country in the world, filled with sweet-scented
flowers spilling through lush green foliage over
weathered limestone walls. Bermuda is warm
water so clear it is almost invisible and sand so
pink that Crayola should name a crayon after it.
It is friendly people who greet you on the street
with a smile and a cheery "Good morning". Best
of all, Bermuda is our paradise next door as Air
Canada has a weekly two-hour flight from Halifax
during high season and daily flights 2 1/2 hour
flights via Toronto are available throughout the
year.
Bermuda, located in the middle of the Gulf
Stream off the Carolinas, has two seasons - summer and not-quite summer. Unlike the Caribbean,
which remains fairly hot all year round, Bermuda cools down in the November to March period
with an average daily temperature about 20oC. It is a perfect time to play golf, walk the beaches,
have a game of tennis or explore this 35 kilometre long country. In addition, many properties
offer special packages and discounted rates during this time period.
The taxi from Harmony Club was waiting for us
outside the modern air terminal and the drive gave
us a chance to catch up on the local news. We
have stayed at many properties over the years in
Bermuda but Harmony Club is special. It is the
only all-inclusive resort in the country. In fact,
you probably could leave your wallet at home
except that you would miss buying all those
wonderful gifts in Hamilton's downtown stores.
For one price, guests receive airport transfers and
are accommodated with a chilled bottle of bubbly
upon arrival in their warmly decorated room at a
resort with an informal yet classy private club
atmosphere. Either a double motor scooter or
convenient bus passes are included as well as unlimited quality bar drinks and nightly
entertainment. Three meals a day include a buffet breakfast and lunch, and a gourmet dinner with
wine in either the dining room or beside the pool. Tipping is not even an option. The sun
drenched lounge chairs beside the large inviting pool become the focal point during warm
afternoons. A putting green is popular with golfers as well as dozens of frogs who congregate
there at dusk.
We had hardly unpacked before we were off to Hamilton, just a few short minutes away on a
clean, friendly bus (a seven-day bus pass is good on all routes as well as the ferry system, making
it an exceptional value). Although we have used a double scooter before, one of us likes to
slightly exceed the speed limit. She does wait for Slow-poke to catch up at roundabouts and
intersections. After stopping in to see our friends at Wheels Cycle on Front Street, we each had
our own two wheels and were soon scooting about the island as if we had never left (by the way,
driving is on the left so care is required). We love using scooters in Bermuda, even if the
roadways are narrow and twisting, as they give us complete freedom to explore what feels like
our second home.
Within minutes we were at Stonington Beach
(Harmony Club guests enjoy a beach lounge,
umbrella and towels here) swimming in the
luscious water at the beach, watching clouds float
by and dreaming on the soft, pink sand.
Returning to Harmony Club, a quick swim in the
pool, a shower, a sip of the bubbly, a change into
nice casual and we were ready to be treated to a
delicious dinner. Later we had the opportunity to
make new friends while listening to the joyful
sounds of Andrew Chamberlain on the grand
piano in the lounge.
Morning brought more perpetual sunshine as the
chef presiding over the morning buffet created
two fluffy omelets which provided the energy we needed after having run along the Railway Trail.
One of us has been a runner for many years while the other one cheers from the sidelines. Now
he has joined the ranks. As the former railway line passes beside Harmony Club, it was too
perfect to pass up. Beneath a canopy of green vegetation above deep limestone rock cuts, we ran
for three kilometres while breathing in the delicious sweet aroma of oleander and hibiscus before
the 3 km return (she still waited for Slow-poke to catch up).
Then we were off to the west end of the island to see what new
art and craftwork was available in the shops at the Dockyard. As
lunchtime crept up on us, we strolled into Beethoven's in the
Dockyard's Clock Tower Mall for one of the most delicious fresh
fish dinners we have ever enjoyed in our lives. Bruno Heeb, a
former chef at the Waterloo House (a Relais and Chateaux
hotel), is one of the partners of this friendly restaurant and his
creative mind is constantly providing delicious ideas for his
guests to enjoy.
After lunch we scooted into a couple of small beach coves along
the south shore to do a little snorkeling before heading back to
Harmony Club for a tie-and-jacket dinner, a once a week event.
We decided to spend the second half of our week in Bermuda at
Waterloo House, mainly because of room 10, one of our all-time
favourite hideaways. Located on the second floor overlooking
Hamilton Harbour, the French doors of this lovely room open
onto a private balcony with one of the best views imaginable.
This Relais and Chateaux property is one of the finest small
hotels to be found anywhere. From the outside, the soft pink
walls of the hotel look unassuming but once you enter the first
courtyard it becomes a whole new experience. It is like stepping into a corner of a Mediterranean
villa with splashes of colourful flowers and quiet areas amidst a pastel backdrop of garden
terraces.
After checking in we were off to explore. We stopped in at City Hall and used our Heritage
Passes to see what was new at the art gallery before spending a few minutes of quiet time in the
Cathedral just a block down Church Street.
A refreshing swim in the secluded pool at
Waterloo House and we were ready for dinner.
We sat on the waterfront terrace under a wide
canopy of tree branches aglow with tiny lights
that reflected on the water adding luster to an
already magnificent setting sun. After an
excellent meal we were ready to stroll along Front
Street which is closed off to traffic every
Wednesday night for Harbour Night. Friendly
artists and craftspeople display their products to
both visitors and residents who leisurely wander
along the waterfront beside two cruise ships at
dock.
Thursday was spent frolicking in the gentle surf
along secluded Grape Bay Beach. We chatted with some of the crew shooting photos for the
next Virginia's Secret catalogue who had chosen this stunning backdrop to highlight their new line
of products. That evening we experienced delicious Italian food in the friendly and lively Little
Venice Restaurant where a group of colourfully costumed Gomby dancers passed through to
entertain the patrons.
The next day, after a relaxing breakfast at
Waterloo House, we were off to the east end and
St. George's, the original capital of Bermuda.
Although we often take advantage of the good
value offered by the seven day transportation
passes for the efficient bus and ferry system, we
also like to use scooters from Wheels Ltd. which
allows us the flexibility to explore the islands to
our heart's content. After a snorkel at Tobacco
Bay, we spent a pleasant hour on the Coral Sea,
watching sea turtles from the upper deck and
marine life in all forms on a reef through the glass
bottom of the boat. On our way back to
Hamilton, we stopped by Bermuda's most famous
"watering hole", Swizzle Inn. Sitting on the upper balcony we viewed the traffic of scooters and
small cars rushing to and fro as we consumed a jug of the potent rum swizzle.
Back at the relaxing and tranquil atmosphere of Waterloo House, we soaked away our tired
bodies in room 10's jacuzzi before heading out to the Monte Carlo Restaurant located behind City
Hall. In a room reminiscent of southern France we relaxed over a crisp chilled white wine before
indulging in freshly-prepared cuisine representative of the Provence region. After such a feast we
walked for awhile, watching the moon as it shimmered through the palm trees. Finally returning
back to Waterloo House, we sat on our balcony sipping a glass of bubbly as the last few guests
completed their meal at the water's edge. The stars twinkled a little brighter as we savoured the
moment of pure luxury and contentment.
Morning brought with it the reality that our airplane was awaiting us. Some cold winter night we
will sit by the fire and relive these warm memories of our favourite paradise.
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romantic
country in the world, filled with sweet-scented
flowers spilling through lush green foliage over
weathered limestone walls. Bermuda is warm
water so clear it is almost invisible and sand so
pink that Crayola should name a crayon after it.
It is friendly people who greet you on the street
with a smile and a cheery "Good morning". Best
of all, Bermuda is our paradise next door as Air
Canada has a weekly two-hour flight from Halifax
during high season and daily flights 2 1/2 hour
flights via Toronto are available throughout the
year.
us
outside the modern air terminal and the drive gave
us a chance to catch up on the local news. We
have stayed at many properties over the years in
Bermuda but Harmony Club is special. It is the
only all-inclusive resort in the country. In fact,
you probably could leave your wallet at home
except that you would miss buying all those
wonderful gifts in Hamilton's downtown stores.
For one price, guests receive airport transfers and
are accommodated with a chilled bottle of bubbly
upon arrival in their warmly decorated room at a
resort with an informal yet classy private club
atmosphere. Either a double motor scooter or
convenient bus passes are included as well as unlimited quality bar drinks and nightly
entertainment. Three meals a day include a buffet breakfast and lunch, and a gourmet dinner with
wine in either the dining room or beside the pool. Tipping is not even an option. The sun
drenched lounge chairs beside the large inviting pool become the focal point during warm
afternoons. A putting green is popular with golfers as well as dozens of frogs who congregate
there at dusk.
(Harmony Club guests enjoy a beach lounge,
umbrella and towels here) swimming in the
luscious water at the beach, watching clouds float
by and dreaming on the soft, pink sand.
Returning to Harmony Club, a quick swim in the
pool, a shower, a sip of the bubbly, a change into
nice casual and we were ready to be treated to a
delicious dinner. Later we had the opportunity to
make new friends while listening to the joyful
sounds of Andrew Chamberlain on the grand
piano in the lounge.
to see what new
art and craftwork was available in the shops at the Dockyard. As
lunchtime crept up on us, we strolled into Beethoven's in the
Dockyard's Clock Tower Mall for one of the most delicious fresh
fish dinners we have ever enjoyed in our lives. Bruno Heeb, a
former chef at the Waterloo House (a Relais and Chateaux
hotel), is one of the partners of this friendly restaurant and his
creative mind is constantly providing delicious ideas for his
guests to enjoy.
Waterloo House and we were ready for dinner.
We sat on the waterfront terrace under a wide
canopy of tree branches aglow with tiny lights
that reflected on the water adding luster to an
already magnificent setting sun. After an
excellent meal we were ready to stroll along Front
Street which is closed off to traffic every
Wednesday night for Harbour Night. Friendly
artists and craftspeople display their products to
both visitors and residents who leisurely wander
along the waterfront beside two cruise ships at
dock.
House, we were off to the east end and
St. George's, the original capital of Bermuda.
Although we often take advantage of the good
value offered by the seven day transportation
passes for the efficient bus and ferry system, we
also like to use scooters from Wheels Ltd. which
allows us the flexibility to explore the islands to
our heart's content. After a snorkel at Tobacco
Bay, we spent a pleasant hour on the Coral Sea,
watching sea turtles from the upper deck and
marine life in all forms on a reef through the glass
bottom of the boat. On our way back to
Hamilton, we stopped by Bermuda's most famous
"watering hole", Swizzle Inn. Sitting on the upper balcony we viewed the traffic of scooters and
small cars rushing to and fro as we consumed a jug of the potent rum swizzle.